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Through our Material Alliance, choose the perfect filament for your application — from advanced polymers to carbon fiber composites. Wherever you are in the world, Ultimaker support is close by. Our global network of service partners offer professional installation, training, and maintenance in your language and time zone. Share More sharing options Followers 1. Recommended Posts.

Shirly 1 Posted September 19, Hi, Just wondering if anyone has any advice on this issue? It only happens when a job is running. It will feed fine when i re-load it each time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options Smithy 1, Posted September 19, Hi and welcome! Yes sorry,PVA! Shirly 1 Posted September 20, Great, thanks for your help. I will try it on the build plate today. Smithy 1, Posted September 20, Baychattan 1 Posted September 20, Thanks for the replies so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account. Sign in Already have an account? If you have a 3dsolex core then you can just change out the nozzle.

As far as underextrusion causes – there’s just so damn many. Some of the top issues: 1 Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp.

But don’t go over C with PLA. In cura 3. X search in settings for all line widths. If any of them are larger than the nozzle diameter this can cause underextrusion. There are 8 of these in cura 3. Try a different core. It could be clogged, or something more complex like the temp sensor in the core.

Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that’s more obvious it just won’t print. Atomic method cold pull is the cure – from the menu do a few cold pulls. The result should be filament that is the exact shape of the interior of the nozzle including the tiny passage to the tip of the nozzle.

If it doesn’t look like that you need to pull at a colder temperature. You can do it manually instead of through the menu if it’s not working right but learn through the menu initially.

Higher temps for other filaments. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at C but actually you are at C. At C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube – on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU. You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. You usually want the tension in the center.

If the white marker isn’t in the center, make sure the adjustment screw actually moves the marker. If not then someone put the feeder back together wrong. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn’t get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. But some manufacturers especially in china make true 3.

It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them.

One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn’t think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the wedgebot link below helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck.

Maybe you changed equipment or a wire fell off. Your parts will also be 2X as tall. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers.

Similar to 8b above – use the wedgebot to feel how much friction there is in the bowden. After a lot of printing or a little printing with abrasive filaments the bowden resistance can be significant. It’s easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably insert filament that has the pattern from the feeder and fight the movement by applying 2kg force on both ends at the same time and then seeing how much harder you have to push it on top of 1kg force.

UM2 feeders can push with 5kg force. UM3 can push quite a bit more. Rumor has it some of the. Not sure if this is actually true. I’m a bit skeptical but try a. This shouldn’t be a problem on the UM3 which has very good quality control but try a different core. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth – particularly from carbon fill. Look at it visually where the filament touches the “pyramids”.


Ultimaker 3 | Dynamism.Ultimaker Feeder Right Assembly UM3 Series | Dynamism

Feeder Right Assembly Feeder 2 for Ultimaker. The filament diameter that achieves optimal results on Ultimaker 3D printers. We have offices in Chicago and Denver with four showrooms across the U.


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